can rotting wood be saved 3

Can Timber Frame Houses Be Repaired?

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    Buying a timber-framed house can be a wise investment in your future. They are also renowned as one of the home styles with the longest lifespan on the market. However, you may be wondering if houses built with timber frames can be renovated. The right answer is "yes." Timber frames feature a lot of moving parts that must all work together perfectly for you and your family to function properly. If one component fails, it will have a cascading effect on the remainder of the house's systems.

    Common Problems With Timber Frames

    • There's a chance that humidity is causing the timbers to rot.
    • The symptoms of a fungal infection
    • The presence of powder or "frass" is an indication of a beetle infestation.
    • The structure fails in the lintels over the doors and windows.
    • The timber frames were moving, and the joints were deteriorating.
    • drooping beams, most likely caused by overloading
    • As part of the alteration procedure, lumber has been sawn through.

    Checking Timber Frames For Damage

    can rotting wood be saved

    Decayed Timber

    The underlying cause of decay is moisture, which leads to rot and insect infestation in lumber. The greatest significant threat to timber is decay. Make every effort to establish the source of the moisture, which could be as simple as clogged gutters or downpipes, faulty outside cement renders, or high ground levels. Instead of only treating the symptoms, you should address the fundamental issues.


    • Probe the wood with a penknife to see if it is sound; good wood will resist being penetrated.
    • Determine the source of the moisture and then address the issue.
    • Always prioritise treating the underlying cause over treating the symptoms.
    • Make sure the wood has plenty of time to dry. Most of the time, chemical treatment is not required to dry lumber.

    Keep a watch on the affected areas to ensure the problem has been resolved.

    Beetle Infestation

    Although the appearance of beetle attack symptoms in old wood is rather common, it does not always signal a serious concern. In many cases, there is no need to take anything because the insects are inactive. The presence of fine dust or "frass" in regions where the beetles have emerged from "exit" holes usually indicates an active beetle infestation.


    • Be sure to inspect the escape holes that the beetles have formed. If the walls are obscured by darkness and grime, the assault will almost certainly go down in history. Holes that are spotless and pale in colour are most likely more recent.
    • Examine the areas where the insects have emerged through the holes for the presence of fine dust or "frass," as this could be an indication of an active infestation.
    • The lack of need for chemical treatment should be the case if the timber is dry.

    Minimising Damage To Timber Frames

    In the past, "depressing," or chopping off beetle-infested or decaying timber, was routinely employed to assess and clean up the structural integrity of timber. This was done on a consistent basis. This is an extremely harmful procedure that will entirely modify the appearance of it and remove the original surface.

    An evaluation is required to evaluate whether or not the construction is sound; non-destructive testing procedures are now widely available. To put it simply, this procedure requires boring holes into the wood with a very little drill bit; however, specialised organisations can perform more exact testing.

    Keep in mind that any wood therapy that depends on chemicals will only address the symptoms of the disease, not the root cause. For example, if the cause of the dampness has been removed and the timber has been allowed to dry out, chemical treatment is frequently unnecessary. This is due to the fact that the rate of further decay will be greatly reduced, if not completely stopped.

    Stripping Paint From Timber Beams

    Although beams are frequently covered, you should exercise extreme caution before attempting to remove the paint. The action can be risky, takes an indefinite length of time, needs a substantial amount of labour, and there is a potential that the desired outcome will not be achieved. Avoid using any abrasive processes, such as wire brushes, in your cleaning. Here are some tips for removing paint:

    • Ensure that the surrounding regions are safe.
    • First, conduct the test in a discrete and unobtrusive region.
    • Use chemical paint removers in conjunction with scraping to remove the paint. Digging into the wood should be avoided.
    • To remove numerous layers of paint, peel away poultice removal techniques should be used.
    • Hot air pistols have the potential to be useful, but users should be mindful that they pose a fire hazard. Never use a blow torch when cooking.
    • Never fire blast or sand beams at the timber, as this will cause the surface of the timber to be destroyed in addition to the timber's original shape and texture.
    • If it is particularly dark, you might want to think about using the classic casein distemper to lighten the rays.

    Old Timber Frame Buildings: Repair And Maintenance

    Restoring a timber-framed house can be a challenging but potentially rewarding project. However, what exactly is involved in the process of fixing and maintaining something? Taking on the task of remodelling an older home may be a highly rewarding experience for the homeowner. When it comes to historical dwellings with wood frame construction, such as the delightful 16th-century cottage shown above, the frame itself necessitates its own set of repairs and corrective measures.

    The exposed timber in homes with timber frames that do not have lime or brick render covering may have experienced some weather damage over the period of several centuries. A lack of adequate modern materials may have been used recently to cover the bare wood. As a result, these timbers may need to be repaired.

    Potential Issues

    The bulk of problems can be traced back to structural and rot flaws. Both of these difficulties, however, are commonly intertwined: rot can render timber useless for its intended purpose, as can a woodworm or beetle infestation, both of which thrive in moist wood. Furthermore, rot can attack the weathering face of the façade while leaving the timber behind it intact and unscathed. As a result, it is critical to identify the source of the problem before addressing the consequences and making remedies. There are many potential pathways for moisture to become embedded in wood:

    • External shakes, which are fissures that can occur along the grain of the lumber as it dries out, do not typically pose a threat to the frame's structural integrity. It's possible that water could get inside the building if it shakes.
    • Timbers installed with the grain running at an angle can cause a number of issues. Rain can both wash away the grain, leading to the formation of ridges, and become trapped within the undulating surface, leading to flooding.
    • The soleplate (the wood that is closest to the ground; more on this later) can also become wet and rot if internal flooring or soil levels rise above it. Centuries may pass before this occurs.

    So-called "repair work" performed in the past fifty years using modern, synthetic materials has accelerated the structure's deterioration. Wood is a breathable building material because it allows moisture and humidity to pass freely through it. Contemporary building materials, such as cement render and synthetic paints, are impermeable, meaning they do not allow the timber to breathe.

    Perform Repairs On

    Let's assume you've found some potential issues, either on your own or with the help of a building surveyor. If this is the case, finding a skilled carpenter, master craftsman, or period construction expert with relevant experience should be high on your list of priorities. Make sure you hire a reliable company to make the necessary repairs, as using cement mortars or other band-aid solutions will only worsen the building's condition in the long run.

    The first thing the builder should do is look into how the house was put together. Old timber frame houses are all unique in their own ways. Not only has timber frame architecture evolved over the centuries, but many buildings have been expanded and remodelled, often with key structural timbers cut without providing the frame with sufficient support. Consequently, figuring out the load distribution is essential.

    The determination of whether or not the frame requires repairs in order to be returned to a state that is structurally sound is an important aspect of this first procedure. To begin extensive work on the frame, such as changing the sole plate, it is necessary to first ensure that the frame is in good structural condition.

    Replacing Damaged Plates in Soles

    Sole plate refers to the bottom piece of wood in a frame, which typically rests on a plinth wall. This is the same thing as a cill plate, another common name for it. Crucial to the overall stability of the building is a sole plate into which the horizontal timbers (studs and posts) are tenoned. Due to their proximity to the ground, they are typically the first components that require maintenance after suffering damage.

    In certain cases, only certain pieces of the soleplate would need to be removed, while in others, the entire thing might have to be replaced. Installing a new sole plate, typically made of air-dried timber and placed atop a bed of lime mortar, necessitates trying to prop up the structure and attempting to remove a couple of layers of the brick plinth.

    Repairing The Exterior Of The Frame

    The exterior of the frame is another place that might need some modification at some point. It is possible to remove rotten pieces and then carefully repair the damage with new air-dried timber. Again, the same species of timber should be utilised, and a scarf joint can be used to attach the pieces together after they have been spliced. When necessary, even brand new mortise and tenon joints can be made using the traditional woodworking technique.

    Filling in large shakes can be done by splicing in new wood, using lime mortar, and then finishing with a limewash. It is important, however, to remove any cement mortar "repairs" that were done previously. House additionally offers its clientele a popular caulking repair kit that includes oakum as an alternative. Oakum, or hemp fibres saturated in Stockholm tar, is a light and airy hemp fibre.

    Repairing Painted Timber

    Ironically, the "black and white timber frame houses" we've come to recognise as part of the vernacular in counties like Worcestershire, Shropshire, and Herefordshire aren't nearly as "historical" as we might assume. Herefordshire, Worcestershire, and Shropshire are just a few of the counties in this group. This is because newer residents painted the wooden frames of these historic homes black, whereas the original owners never bothered to do so.

    However, the use of black paints made of plastic is detrimental to the health of timber. Worse than that, some of the frames (typically farm buildings) were coated in bitumen, which was originally thought to be an effective method of waterproofing. However, this impenetrable layer can actually trap moisture, which can then lead to rot in the material. There are a couple of other ways that can be done, aside from simply waiting for the coatings to degrade naturally:

    • The first option, which is also one of the least desirable, is to utilise chemicals that will cause the paint to flake off in layers.
    • The most common method is to use air washing. Sandblasting, on the other hand, can be overly abrasive; the use of air pressure is a more delicate way to remove paint without causing damage to the timber. Again, the expertise of a specialist is necessary here.

    Making Repairs to the Filler Panels

    Additionally, the frame may be affected by the infill panels. Panels made of wattle and daub, for instance, weren't very effective, so they were often swapped out for brick walls. However, if the panel isn't reinforced to support the brick's additional weight, it could inflate under the extra strain and cause the frame to rotate outwards.

    Cement mortar, which is inflexible and lacks the breathability of lime mortar, can make the situation worse. Then it will malfunction for good, and you'll have to start over. When restoring or replacing original daub and wattle, the type of finish used is crucial: A lime wash that allows water to pass through it is ideal for use outdoors. It's fine to use clay-based paints indoors because of their permeability.

    Cleaning Timber Frames

    Beams may appear "weary," but keep in mind that they have most likely aged for hundreds of years, which means they have a gorgeous surface patina that may be quickly lost if severe cleaning or stripping is conducted. Some pointers for cleaning the beams:

    • Depending on the condition, carefully remove dirt and dust with a soft brush, a moist cloth, or the soft brush attachment of a vacuum cleaner.
    • Apply a very tiny layer of beeswax polish if you want a delicate shine.
    • Linseed oil should be avoided because of its sticky character, which attracts dirt.
    • Allow new wood to deepen and colour naturally before staining it so that it blends in with the old wood.

    Timber Frame Houses: Common Problems And Treatment

    Although statistics show that timber frames are utilised in at least one-quarter of newly constructed homes, its popularity in the United States may not be as ubiquitous as it is in other countries across the world.

    There are numerous advantages to using a timber frame, including the fact that it retains more heat than a brick building and that it is highly sturdy, frequently surviving for hundreds of years. Furthermore, a house constructed of wood takes far less time to build than a building made of stone or brick, and it is also much easier to maintain.

    The only notable disadvantage is that they are prone to dry rot and degradation. You can, however, ensure that the wood in your home remains structurally strong for decades by giving it with the proper level of care and upkeep. Let's look at dry rot and decay, as well as the remedies for each.

    Dry Rot

    Dry rot is caused by a fungus that thrives in wet, poorly ventilated environments and is capable of penetrating bricks to reach the timber behind them, according to DIY Data. As a result, it can affect all of the wood in your home, including structural timber, skirting boards, door frames, and floors, and it can create serious fractures.

    Dry rot appears as cotton wool or a whitish felt in its early stages, but as it grows, it transforms into thick strands. It can grow through plaster and paint and generate "fruit" that resemble mushrooms in the absence of any intervention. Unfortunately, many people discover they have a dry rot problem when they notice fungal mushrooms growing on their walls. This is a frequent dry rot symptom.

    According to DIY researchers, the most effective dry rot cure is to instal joist hangers in affected areas and replace troublesome joists with new ones. Additionally, ventilation in these areas should be increased. If, on the other hand, the problem is severe, the damaged wood must be removed and replaced (some specialists will even remove the wood a metre on each side of the affected area). In some cases, if the brickwork has been contaminated, a fungal treatment may be required.


    Decomposition is caused by the presence of moisture. When wood rots, it becomes a magnet for beetles, who can chew their way through it and build a home inside if given the chance. Before you can treat the rot in the wood, you must first determine what is causing it.

    In most situations, the problem is caused by clogged gutters that overflow or by poor-quality cement. Take deal of that specific issue first. If this does not occur, the damp will return. You can find out whether there is degradation by gently probing the issue areas with a penknife (any sharp object will do). If the penknife penetrates the wood, it signals that there is a problem.

    You'll know you have a beetle problem if you observe fine dust or "frass" on your lumber, which is where the beetles bore in and out of the wood. If the damage is light in colour, it is recent and must be addressed; however, if the damage is dark in colour, the beetles have long since left the region and the problem is no longer a concern.

    How To Restore Dull Furniture Finishes

    Use Paste Wax

    There are a few different approaches that may be used to refresh the appearance of a wood finish that has become dull over time. Applying a coat of regular paste wax is one method you can use to achieve a dry finish on a surface that has not been severely damaged.

    Apply paste wax to the surface of the wood using a soft cloth, and then work it into the pores of the wood with a firm, circular motion. Because it can be pushed deeply into the wood, paste wax is not only simple to apply but also effective. After penetrating the wood, it will become more solid and will act as a protective seal, much like how car wax does.

    Following the application of the wax and the subsequent rubbing of it into the wood:

    • Give it some time to start drying off.
    • After waiting five minutes, buff the finish with a rag that is clean and dry.
    • Buff in the same direction as the grain to remove any excess wax and provide a gloss with very little lustre.

    Instead of a glossy, high-gloss finish, this produces a more subdued appearance that is more fitting for an antique.

    Use Oil

    If the finish on the wood has become exceedingly dry and lifeless as a result of advanced deterioration, using paste wax may not be sufficient to restore the wood to its former splendour. In situations like these, oil may be a better option to choose. Oil is a light-bodied oil with a low viscosity that permeates the wood grain very well.

    It is critical to have adequate ventilation when working with oil or other oil-based coatings. It is best to apply oil with a clean rag or an applicator. When the oil is rubbed into the surface, it quickly binds to the wood and effectively penetrates the pores of the wood.

    Using an applicator pad to apply oil is also an option. Remove any extra oil with a paper towel after soaking it in oil, and then apply it to the wood. Oil is very simple to control, but the task can become a little messy, so confine this activity to a work area or lay down newspaper or other protective layers for rapid cleanup.

    After around five minutes, wipe the excess oil off the wood with a clean rag to eliminate any residue left by the oil. Allow the oil to soak in for a few minutes before applying it to ensure proper penetration and hardening within the pores. On the other hand, you should avoid allowing the oil pool to dry completely on the surface of the wood, since this will result in a sticky mess.

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    Use Lubricated Sandpaper

    When dealing with real antiques, it is always ideal to leave the original finish intact and avoid stripping or otherwise harming it. On the other hand, if the piece you're attempting to restore has a finish that has been substantially damaged to the point where it's become rough and dry, a radical step may be required. Consider using extremely fine sandpaper in conjunction with lemon oil to smooth out the rough surface without affecting the original polish. In our demonstration, we used sandpaper with a grit of 600.

    Because even a very fine grit could leave scratches on the polish, it was used in conjunction with some normal lemon oil. Lemon oil should be used not just on the finish but also on the sandpaper. The goal is to remove as much of the dead finish as possible while minimising the amount of wood that must be sanded away.

    After applying the oil, thoroughly sand the top layer of the finish with the lubricated sandpaper to remove any defects. This process should provide a smooth surface that infuses fresh life into the recovered wood. Because lemon oil acts as a lubricant, once you've completed sanding, wipe away the excess with a clean rag. This procedure is absolutely risk-free for fixing a severely damaged antique finish while also helping to the revitalisation of the wood when done correctly.


    There are a lot of moving parts in timber frames, and they all need to work together smoothly for your family's comfort and safety. The failure of a single part can have a domino effect on the rest of the house's machinery. Decay, which can lead to insect infestation and rot, is the greatest major threat to timber. In the past, the structural integrity of timber was typically evaluated by "depressing," or cutting off beetle-infested or decaying timber. This treatment is extremely destructive as it will completely alter the look of the wood and remove the natural finish.

    Timber-framed buildings from the past likely have weather damage from the years. It's possible that weather damage to the exposed wood was the result of a lack of modern materials. Since wood readily absorbs and releases moisture, it is considered to be a "breathable" material. To that end, it's important that you find a competent carpenter, master craftsman, or expert in period construction. It's best to hire a professional company to handle the repairs rather than relying on cement mortars or other temporary fixes, which will only make the building's condition worse in the long run.

    Painted timber frame home repairs are often complex and best left to trained professionals. Oakum, hemp fibres soaked in Stockholm tar, or airy hemp fibre can all be used as alternatives to caulking. Splicing in new wood and fixing it with lime mortar and limewash are both viable options. One in four recently built homes have timber frames, but these structures quickly deteriorate from dry rot. One of the many benefits of a timber frame is that it can keep in more heat than a brick structure and can last for hundreds of years with proper care.

    The presence of water is what ultimately leads to wood rot. Plaster and paint won't stop its growth, and its mushroom-like "fruit" aren't the only things it can produce. The best way to fix dry rot is to instal joist hangers and replace the rotten joists. In addition, the air flow in those spots needs to be improved. Application of paste wax to antique wood is highly recommended as it seeps deep into the wood's pores to form a protective seal.

    Avoid stripping or otherwise damaging the original finish whenever possible when dealing with genuine antiques. Our objective is to smooth out the wood's surface as much as possible while minimising the amount of dead finish we have to sand away.

    Content Summary

    1. Timber-framed homes are an excellent long-term investment option.
    2. It's possible you're wondering if a timber-framed home can even be updated.
    3. Rotting timbers are a common issue with timber frames. Humidity could be to blame.
    4. Fungal infection signs Frass, also known as powder, is a telltale sign of a beetle infestation.
    5. The joints were loosening and the timber frames were swaying.
    6. Examining Timber Structures For Deterioration And Damage Wood rots and attracts insects because of water damage, which is the root cause of decay.
    7. Termites are the single greatest danger to wood.
    8. It's insufficient to treat the symptoms without also fixing the underlying problems.
    9. Discover where the moisture is coming from so the problem can be fixed.
    10. Never ignore the root of the problem and settle for treating the symptoms.
    11. Allow the wood plenty of time to dry.
    12. The Infestation of Beetles Although it is not uncommon for old wood to show signs of having been attacked by beetles, this is not always cause for alarm.
    13. Examine the areas where the insects have emerged through the holes for the presence of fine dust or "frass," as this could be an indication of an active infestation.
    14. If the timber is dry, no chemical treatment will be necessary.
    15. Reducing The Risk Of Damage To Timber Structures In the past, the structural integrity of timber was typically evaluated by "depressing," or cutting off beetle-infested or decaying timber.
    16. Remember that chemical treatments for wood will only mask the symptoms and not the cause of the disease.
    17. If the source of moisture has been addressed and the wood has been given time to dry, for instance, it may not be necessary to use chemicals to treat the wood.
    18. Stripping Paint From Timber Beams Be very careful if you ever decide to try removing paint from a beam, despite how common it is.
    19. To get rid of the paint, you can either scrape it off or use chemical paint removers.
    20. Fixing Up and Maintaining Pre-WWII Timber Frame Homes Restoring a timber-framed home is a difficult but potentially rewarding endeavour.
    21. But what exactly goes into keeping something in working order?
    22. Homeowners who take on the challenge of renovating an older property may find the work to be extremely satisfying.
    23. Historical homes with wood frame construction, like the charming 16th-century cottage shown above, require their own unique set of repairs and corrective measures, starting with the frame itself.
    24. Over the course of several centuries, the elements may have taken their toll on the exposed timber in homes with timber frames that aren't covered in lime or brick render.
    25. Recent attempts to cover the bare wood may have been made with outdated materials.
    26. Possible Problems Weaknesses in the building's framework and the presence of rot are the most common causes of repair requests.
    27. Wood can absorb water from a variety of sources: External shakes, which are fissures that can occur along the grain of the lumber as it dries out, do not typically pose a threat to the frame's structural integrity.
    28. So-called "repair work" performed in the past fifty years using modern, synthetic materials has accelerated the structure's deterioration.
    29. Wood is a breathable building material because it allows moisture and humidity to pass freely through it.
    30. Assume you or a building surveyor have identified some potential problems.
    31. If this is the case, finding a skilled carpenter, master craftsman, or period construction expert with relevant experience should be high on your list of priorities.
    32. Cement mortars and other temporary fixes won't improve the building's condition in the long run, so it's important to hire a reputable company to make the necessary repairs.
    33. Part of this initial process involves figuring out if the frame needs fixing up to get back to a safe and sound condition.
    34. To begin extensive work on the frame, such as changing the sole plate, it is necessary to first ensure that the frame is in good structural condition.
    35. The horizontal timbers (studs and posts) are tenoned into a single plate, which is essential to the building's structural integrity as a whole.
    36. Alterations to the external frame There is also the possibility that the frame's exterior will need to be altered.
    37. Traditional woodworking techniques can be used to create brand new mortise and tenon joints when required.
    38. Repairing large shakes involves splicing in new wood, applying lime mortar, and then washing the entire thing with lime.
    39. Fixing Up Painted Wood In counties like Worcestershire, Shropshire, and Herefordshire, "black and white timber frame houses" have become a part of the vernacular, but they aren't nearly as "historical" as one might think.
    40. There are a number of counties in this group, including Herefordshire, Worcestershire, and Shropshire.
    41. The original owners of these historic homes never bothered to paint the wooden frames, but the newer residents have done so.
    42. However, black plastic paints are harmful to the wellbeing of wood.
    43. In contrast, air pressure is a gentler way to remove paint without damaging the wood, while sandblasting can be too abrasive for some surfaces.
    44. Fixing Up the Blank Panels Infill panels may also have an impact on the frame.
    45. The type of finish used is crucial when restoring or replacing original daub and wattle: Using a lime wash that is permeable to water is ideal for outdoor applications.
    46. Timber frames have many benefits, such as being more durable and able to last for hundreds of years without warping or rotting. They also retain heat better than brick buildings.
    47. The main disadvantage is that they degrade and dry rot easily.
    48. Maintaining the wood in your home properly will ensure that it lasts for decades and serves as a sturdy structural component.
    49. Let's take a look at dry rot, decay, and their respective treatments.
    50. It can cause serious cracks in the wood throughout your home, including the structural timber, skirting boards, door frames, and floors.
    51. When people see mushrooms growing on their walls, they often realise they have a dry rot problem.
    52. If you want to treat the rot in the wood, you need to know what's causing it.
    53. The presence of a problem is indicated if the penknife cuts through the wood.
    54. If you look closely at your lumber, you may notice fine dust or "frass" at the entrances and exits where the beetles have bored.
    55. A dry finish can be achieved on a surface that has not been severely damaged by applying a coat of regular paste wax.
    56. After you've applied the wax and rubbed it into the wood, you should wait for it to begin drying.
    57. After five minutes, use a dry, clean rag to buff the surface.
    58. Oil Up Paste wax may not be able to revive the wood's finish if it has become extremely dry and lifeless due to advanced deterioration.
    59. The oil readily adheres to the wood upon being rubbed into the surface and efficiently penetrates the wood's pores.
    60. Once the paper towel has been soaked in oil, any excess can be removed and the oil can be applied to the wood.
    61. In about five minutes, you should use a clean rag to remove the oil from the wood and any remaining residue.
    62. To ensure proper penetration and hardening within the pores, let the oil sit on the skin for a few minutes after application.
    63. Sand with lubricated paper. Avoid stripping or otherwise damaging the original finish whenever possible when dealing with genuine antiques.
    64. If the finish on the item you're trying to restore is severely worn and rough, however, you may need to take drastic action.
    65. Think about using super-fine sandpaper and lemon oil to buff out the rough spots without ruining the shine.
    66. You shouldn't just put lemon oil on the finish; you should also put it on the sandpaper.
    67. Our objective is to smooth out the wood's surface as much as possible while minimising the amount of dead finish we have to sand away.
    68. After applying the oil, thoroughly sand the top layer of the finish with the lubricated sandpaper to remove any defects.
    69. After you're done sanding, wipe away any remaining lemon oil with a clean rag, as it acts as a lubricant.

    Frequently Asked Questions About Timber Frame Houses

    The timber frame itself is normally "guaranteed" by the manufacturer for various periods ranging from 10 to 40 years. It is a commonly perceived opinion within the industry that 25 –30 years is a reasonably expected lifespan for a softwood timber framed building.

    The actual frame itself is pressure treated with preservatives, so it's well-protected. Yet, poor maintenance can result in cladding or fascia boards suffering from rot. Timber frames can also rot if poorly built or in an extremely wet climate.

    Timber is a living material. It expands when it absorbs moisture and shrinks when it dries out. This can and does cause problems for the owners of new homes built using timber frames. They can often experience extensive shrinkage cracking caused by the timber frame drying out and settling.

    As a result, modern timber-framed homes can be no more expensive to insure than any other type of building.

    A timber-framed home isn't highly unusual but is often labelled a non-standard property by a mortgage lender. Any home considered a higher risk can be harder to mortgage, with higher interest rates and deposit requirements.

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