When Tiling A Roof Where Do You Start?
The process of laying a tile roof can be difficult and time consuming. Before commencing the actual tiling process, a work of this magnitude will necessitate extensive planning and preparation on the part of the individual. Furthermore, whether you are installing brand new roofing tiles or replacing damaged ones, having the right method is critical. You will learn how to properly instal roof tiles in the following paragraphs.
Choosing The Roof Tile Material
Before tiling a roof, it is critical to determine which sort of roof tile will be used.
Clay Roof Tiles
Clay roof tiles have been used for hundreds of years and are extremely popular. They not only allow you to build a conventional and timeless roof, but they are also one of the most durable roofing materials available. Furthermore, because clay tiles are usually similar in colour and size, the overall appearance of the roof is consistent and clean.
Slate Roof Tiles
Slate roof tiles are yet another well-liked type of roofing material. The naturally striking appearance of slate roof tiles, which gives a crisp and clean finish and has natural variations in colour flowing through it, is one of the primary reasons for their widespread popularity. In addition, slate roofs typically have a lifespan of one hundred years or more, which makes them an excellent choice for older structures due to their exceptional durability.
Concrete Roof Tiles
Because of the incredible variety of colours, sizes, and shapes that can now be achieved through various manufacturing processes, concrete roof tiles are experiencing a surge in popularity. In addition, considering the fact that concrete roof tiles are relatively favourable to the environment, they are frequently utilised on projects that are being investigated for environmental credentials.
Plastic Roof Tiles
The use of recycled plastic in the production of a number of different plastic roof tiles has enabled the creation of lightweight and ecologically friendly alternatives. Plastic roof tiles are available in a wide variety of designs, colours, and dimensions; hence, it is possible to imitate the look of a more conventional roof while also demonstrating a greater commitment to protecting the environment.
Calculate The Number Of Roof Tiles Required
Calculate Roof Area
After you have selected the roof tiles that you want to instal on your home's roof, the next step is to determine the quantity of roof tiles that will be required. In order to accomplish this, you will need to be familiar with the dimensions of a single roof tile as well as the total surface area of the roof. Click this link for further information on how to determine the total area of the roof.
Calculate The Number Of Tiles Required
After you have determined the total surface area of the roof, you can divide that number by the dimensions of a roof tile. Examine the instructions provided by the manufacturer as an alternative. The manufacturer will typically supply a number that outlines the number of tiles that are necessary per square metre of the roof. Check out our article for more information and specifics on how to calculate the number of roof tiles you require.
Ensure You Have Everything You Need
To begin tiling the roof, you must first determine the quantity of tiles you will need and then gather all of the other instruments, tools, and supplies that will be required. Don't forget that in addition to standard equipment and accessories like a hammer and a ladder, you'll also need roofing tiles, roofing nails, timber battens, underlay, and sealer. If necessary, you'll also need ridge and hip tiles.
Prepare The Roof
If you are working on an already-built roof, the first thing you need to do is take off any of the existing roofing materials. Additionally, inspect the sheathing and either replace or fix any parts that are broken that you find in it. In conclusion, it is essential to have sturdy sheathing because this will be the component that supports the roof tiles.
After the sheathing has been inspected and, if necessary, replaced, the underlay can then be put down. When installing the underlay, start rolling it out parallel to the lower eaves and work your way up to the top of the roofline in sheets. Make sure that the sheets overlap the top of the roof before you secure them on the other side. Make sure there is an overlap between each roll of underlay to make a seal, and then attach the underlay to the sheathing, making sure the nails are spaced at a distance of approximately 50 centimetres apart.
Fit Timber Battens
After the underlay has been put in place, the timber battens that will provide the surface to which the roof tiles will be attached need to be put in place. Tiles should always have a minimum of 3 inches of overlap, with the exception of the eaves, where the eaves tile should reach the centre of the gutter. The gap between timber battens is determined using the tiles. Tiles should always have a minimum of 3 inches of overlap.
As a result, set a tile on top of a timber batten, and then place another tile on top of a timber batten that is below it. You will need to adjust the distance between the battens so that there is a three-inch overlap between the two tiles. The distance that should be between each timber batten can be determined by measuring the distance that is now present between the two battens. Install a batten at the base of the roof, check that a tile will reach the middle of the gutter, and then make your way up the roof while maintaining the predicted spacing between each batten as you go.
Tile The Roof
It is now possible to place the tiles. During the installation process, as you are placing the tiles on the roof, you need to make sure that they are distributed uniformly across the entire roof so that the weight is distributed evenly.
In general, you should work from right to left, and if there are any impediments, such as chimneys, you should work around them before returning to them at a later time.
The tiles should stretch all the way to the gutter's centre line when you begin at the eaves and work your way outward.
Planning For The Project
Determine The Type Of Tile You Want.
There are many various grades of tile available to pick from, and it is necessary to select the grade of tile that is appropriate for the environment in which the building is located.
Equally as important is the decision of whether you would like your tiles to be made of clay or concrete (various grades based on climatic conditions are available for both). They are distinct from one another in certain respects, which makes the decision that much more important.
Clay tiles are often regarded as among the most durable roofing materials available; in fact, they are thought to last even noticeably longer than concrete ones. On the other hand, the lifespan of concrete roofing tiles is normally estimated to be between 30 and 50 years; however, a well-made clay roof may be expected to last for up to 100 years under the correct circumstances.
Although they are long-lasting, clay tiles tend to be more expensive (and neither option is particularly cheap). One estimate demonstrates the significance of the price disparity by stating that the installation of a concrete tile roof on a typical house with a roof area of 1,500 square feet could cost anywhere from $6,000 to $15,000. On the other hand, installing a clay tile roof on the same house could cost anywhere from $10,500 to $45,000.
In conclusion, in comparison to clay tiles, the colour of concrete tiles is more likely to become less vibrant over time. When purchasing a roof, especially one that you intend to keep for a number of years, this is an important consideration to make.
Consider The Impact Of Weight.
In the most basic terms possible, the weight that is placed on a roof by a standard asphalt shingle will normally be less than three pounds per square foot.
Even while concrete tiles are often lighter than clay tiles, they are nonetheless capable of readily placing more than 10 pounds of weight per square foot on a roof.
When you add tiles to a roof that did not previously have them or to a design that did not initially contain them, the roof may not be able to support the additional weight because it was not designed to do so in the first place. If this is the case, you will need to have an inspection done on your roof, and maybe have it reinforced, so that it can support the strain.
Make A List Of Necessary Materials And Tools.
Although some of these are very standard—for instance, it is advised that you have a ladder—others are relatively unique to this activity and are goods that are most likely not yet in your stockpile. For instance, it is recommended that you have a ladder. Take, for instance:
There is a type of nail known as a gasket nail that has an internal plastic cap that can assist in the sealing of nail holes and the prevention of leaks.
Underlay or underlayment. Between the tiles and the roof structure and sheathing, you'll find this water-resistant layer.
There are a few options to choose from, but given that this is a roof that is supposed to last anywhere from 30 to 100 years, it is most likely a smart idea to make an investment in one of the heavy-duty variants.
Caulking or sealant intended for use outdoors. There are a number of caulks and sealants designed specifically for use outdoors; nonetheless, it is strongly advised that you select products that are especially long-lasting and of good quality.
This roof has the potential to endure a lifetime, but it won't if the materials aren't up to the task that has to be done.
Develop An Estimate Of The Materials.
The size of your roof provide the most crucial place from which to begin. This calculator can assist you in determining the size of your roof, so feel free to use it (do not use the function titled "Tile Calculator," which is intended for interior floor tile).
It is hard to provide an accurate estimate of the number of tiles required to do a work without having particular information about the type of tile that will be used. For instance, a piece of the roof of 100 square feet would require anywhere from 75 to 400 tiles.
Plan For A Specific Time.
When deciding whether or not to replace the roof of an existing home, it is important to consider both the climate and the amount of time you have available to do the project.
It goes without saying that you'll want to put your roof on during the winter, but you also need to keep an eye out for dry days so you can do it.
Check out the outlook for the next several days (with an understanding that forecasts do change). In addition, check to see that you have adequate workers on hand to finish this project in a timely manner. You cannot accomplish this task on your alone, so you will need to make appropriate preparations.
Purchase The Necessary Materials And Tools.
While you are getting the materials, you should check with the personnel at the hardware store because they may have specialised information about the items.
They might know something about it if customers have been complaining about a bad product and those customers have been complaining about it.
Remove Old Roofing (If Applicable).
This is a huge task in and of itself, one that may take many days to complete and calls for specialised equipment. Therefore, make sure you set aside enough time to complete this task properly.
Repair And Reinforce The Roof (If Applicable).
It would be beneficial if you had strengthened the framing of the roof early on before removing any previously installed roofs.
Having said that, the sheathing, which is the layer of wood or another material that covers the area between the relatively open frame and the outer layers of roofing, can be harmed or have a lack of strength. Strengthen it.
Again, consider the significance of the weight involved.
The relatively inexpensive and common shingle roofs that many people have are quite light; the weight difference between a light roof and a tile roof will be significant if you are converting from a light roof to a tile roof.
The combined weight of the underlayment and tiles on a roof that is 1,500 square feet in size will be close to 8 tonnes. This is the case for a house that is considered to be fairly typical. That is far more than the same as having two large SUVs parked on top of your house at the same time.
Install The Underlayment.
Place the first roll of underlayment down one side of the roof in a direction that is perpendicular to the eave, which is the lower edge of the roof. Keep the bottom edge of the material aligned with the edge of the eave as you roll out the underlay, but keep it higher than any metal or synthetic edging that may cover the borders of the eave.
Make sure the underlayment is secure. Roll out one portion at a time to a length of ten feet (three metres), and then fix it with nails spaced at intervals of twenty-four inches. At a minimum of two inches' distance from the edge of the roof, keep all of the nails.
When you get to the end of the roof, you will need to cut the roll of underlayment so that it matches the edge. After that, you should nail the end down.
You should begin again at the opposite end of the roof from where you started. It is important to overlap the underlayment so that the newly applied layer partially covers the layer that was previously applied.
There may be a set of lines along with the roll of underlayment, and the purpose of these lines is to demonstrate to the person installing the underlayment exactly how much the different layers should overlap. You should handle the top line on the newly installed layer in the same manner that you did the bottom border of the eave before.
Work Around Obstacles.
In addition to that, any objects, like chimneys, that stick out from the roof will need to have their openings shut. Caulk or other sealants that have been manufactured specifically for use outside should be used to seal the metal flashing that should be used around the chimney.
The underlayment ought to be trimmed so that it may be fitted around these obstructions. The next step is to overlay an additional layer of material (for example, the unused slices of the underlayment material) over the regions where the flashing and the underlayment meet and secure it in place.
Installing The Tiles
Install Battens (If Applicable).
If the pitch of the roof is particularly steep, you might need to use battens to keep the tiles in place. Battens are narrow strips of material that run horizontally along the length of the roof. Battens are typically made of wood, but they can also be made of metal or plastic. Battens are typically 1 inch thick and 2 inches wide. Numerous types of tiles come equipped with a lip or hook that allows them to be hung on various battens. (It should go without saying that this is yet another factor to take into account when selecting the tile that best meets your requirements.) In addition to that, clips are provided so that the tiles can be attached to the batten.
Make the necessary measurements for the battens' spacing with the help of two tiles. A minimum of a three-inch overlap is necessary for the tiles that do not interlock (the measuring will be taken care of for you by interlocking tiles), and a lower amount of overhang should be left over the eaves. Interlocking tiles will take care of the measurement for you. Consider this aspect as you decide where to place the battens in the structure.
After you have decided the distance between the first two battens, measure the distance between them, and then set up the other battens using that spacing, ensuring that you double-check your measurements as you progress through the process.
Install The Tiles.
You should get started on one side of the roof first, and then work your way along the length of the roof.
In the event that battens have not been put, you are free to hammer the tiles directly into the sheathing.
After you have completed the installation of the battens, you will proceed to nail the tiles into the battens. There is also the option of utilising clips in order to secure the tiles to the battens.
If you are using tiles that securely interlock with one another, it is possible that it will not be required to attach all of the tiles to the sheathing or battens; check the directions that come with the tiles carefully for more information.
Cut Tiles To Fit Tight Spots.
There will be obstructions in the path, such as the chimney, and the tiles will need to be trimmed so that they can fit snugly around these locations. Furthermore, the tiles that are located at the end of each row will very probably require being chopped.
Install The Ridge Tiles.
After you have finished the "fields," which refers to the broad surfaces of the roof, you will need to cap the tops with specialised ridge tiles. This step comes after you have finished the "fields."
These are rounded, and depending on the design, they can be arranged either end-to-end or in an overlapping form, depending on which option the designer chooses. It is expected that this will be the very last stage in the installation procedure. To reiterate, congratulations are in order for the excellent job you did installing the new tile roof.
How To Install Clay Roof Tile
Because they have the appearance of being from the Mediterranean, roof tiles made of clay are quite popular. In addition, they are hardy and lightweight, making them an excellent choice for particular roofing applications. Furthermore, in comparison to other materials such as ceramic tiles, they provide superior insulation.
Important considerations to make before installing clay tiles include selecting the appropriate size, colour, and installation method, all of which are determined by the specific type of clay tile.
The Right Slope
Clay tiles are a good choice for roofing applications on slopes steeper than 20 degrees. The visual value of the tile improves along with the angle of the slope, which makes it ideally suited for cathedral-style roofs. Before beginning, check to see if the surface is level; if it isn't, you'll need to use mortar or a thin-set product to bring it to the desired level.
The Right Roofing Underlay
Having a high-quality underlayment for the roof is one of the most essential elements to keep in mind while installing clay tiles.
The material that is placed underneath the clay tile is an important aspect that will have an effect on how long the tile will last. In most cases, the underlay consists of asphalt-soaked roofing material that is used to cover all of the sections that are lower than the tile clay cover.
Make sure that it is attached or put correctly, or else you can quickly wind up with tiles that are overlapping one another. Then, to further preserve the surface, place an additional layer close to the roof edge and in the valleys. Cover every deck with at least two layers of asphalt-impregnated roofing felt No. 30 or one layer of coated base sheet No. 43. This is the very minimum requirement.
Choosing The Right Clay Tile
Clay tiles are created to resist a variety of weather conditions, so it is important to select them based on the climate of the region in which you live. The following are the most frequent varieties of clay tiles:
Slate is a type of rock that is cut into thin, rectangular sections and can range in both size and thickness.
Plain tiles are small rectangular slabs of clay that have a surface finish that is either smooth or sanded.
Pantiles are a particular type of clay tile that have the profile of the letter "S."
Roman Tiles are quite similar to pantiles, however their cross-sections are flat instead of having a little function like in pantiles.
How To Install Clay Tiles
After the underlay has been installed, it is time to place the metal flashing around chimneys, conduits, vents, and other openings in the roof, as well as the area where the roof meets a vertical wall. It is recommended to use a corrosion-resistant flashing with a 28 gauge gauge. In order to properly instal your clay tiles, just follow these easy steps:
Place the first tile on the batten so that the crown is facing upward and align the tile so that it is centred from side to side.
To secure the clay tile to the batten, hammer a nail measuring 10 cents into its underside. Be careful not to overdo the nail. Check that the tile has a two-inch overhang on the end of the batten before proceeding.
To give the first clay tile even more support, apply a thin layer of mortar directly underneath it.
Place another tile so that it overlaps the innermost edge of the preceding one. To alter the end of the second tile, measure from the edge of the tile's perimeter.
You should attach the second tile to the batten in the exact same way that you did the first one.
Place two more tiles at the opposite end of the ridge, and then instal them in the same manner as you did with the earlier tile.
Measure the distance across the bridge from the outside ends of the first tiles at each end of the ridge. To get the number of tiles to instal, subtract 16 inches from the total measurement, then divide that amount by 8.
Start with the second tile at one end of the ridge. Install the ridge tiles from one end to the other, working your way towards the centre of the ridge, and finish by installing the remaining ridge tiles.
Install the remaining tiles starting from the opposite end of the ridge, working your way towards the middle. At long last, mortar is used to secure a critical tile in place at the exact middle of the ridge.
Type Of Mortar
Use a mortar with a consistency somewhere in the middle to make it more workable and simple to apply. Install the mortar at the outer end of the first ridge tile by packing it beneath the tile's outer edge in order to fill the space between the tile and the batten. After that, use the trowel to make it smooth.
Adding mortar around the lower borders of the ridge tiles on each side should be continued. Next, instal mortar at the outside end of the tile at the opposite end of the ridge, being sure to apply sufficient amounts where the ridge tiles meet at the centre point of the ridge. After clearing away any excess mortar with the trowel, position a key ridge tile in the exact middle of the ridge.
Frequently Asked Questions About Tiling A Roof
Roof tiles are 'hung' from the framework of a roof by fixing them with nails. The tiles are usually hung in parallel rows, with each row overlapping the row below it to exclude rainwater and to cover the nails that hold the row below.
For all roof areas and rafter pitches, every tile should be mechanically fixed with at least a nail, a clip, or a combination of these options that provide adequate combined resistance to the wind uplift loads on the tiles. For roof pitches of 45° and above, each tile should be fixed with at least one nail.
If your roof features an overhanging edge known as a verge, try to allow for a 40-50mm overhang with your tiles. This will allow any rainwater to drain into your guttering system and not over the side of your property.
The process of tiling a roof begins with installing the guttering and fascia boards and the bulk delivery of the tiles to the site. This is then followed by the installation of a guard rail and warning signage, which help to protect those below from any danger while work is being carried out.
Roofing felt or roofing underlay sits underneath the tiles or slate on your roof and secures them in place. The felt is laid on the top of the supporting rafters and beneath the tiles or slate battens.